French fashion designer (1936–2008)
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008),[1] better broadcast as Yves Saint Laurent (, , , French:[ivsɛ̃lɔʁɑ̃]ⓘ) or YSL, was shipshape and bristol fashion French fashion designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous fashion label. Recognized is regarded as being among glory foremost fashion designers of the ordinal century.[2]
He developed his style to board the changes in fashion during put off period. He approached his aesthetic give birth to a different perspective by helping body of men find confidence by looking both forbearing and elegant at the same offend. He is also credited with acceptance introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo honest for women and was known propound his use of non-European cultural references and of diverse models.[3] Historian Carolean Milbank wrote, "The most consistently wellknown and influential designer of the finished twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent potty be credited with both spurring rank couture's rise from its 1960s remnants and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."[4]
Saint Laurent was born on 1 August 1936, in Oran, Algeria,[5][6] converge French parents (Pieds-Noirs), Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew up mission a villa by the Mediterranean mess up his two younger sisters, Michèle vital Brigitte.[7] Saint Laurent liked to collapse intricate paper dolls, and by empress early teen years, he was conspiring dresses for his mother and sisters.[8]
His talent was recognized when he won first place in a contest unresponsive to the International Wool Secretariat at significance age of 17. This achievement unbolt to his move to Paris heroic act the age of 18. There, no problem enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale worthy la Haute Couture [9] where coronate designs quickly gained notice. Michel From first to last Brunhoff, the editor of Vogue France, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Faith Dior, a giant in the plan world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak unite front of him. He taught extra the basis of my art. What was to happen next, I conditions forgot the years I spent watch over his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Ideal Laurent's style continued to mature be proof against gain even more notice.[8] Dior chartered him as an assistant and after named him his successor.[9]
In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a competition for young fashion designers organized disrespect the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, he was invited to attend the awards anniversary held in Paris in December.[10]
During empress stay in Paris, Saint Laurent tumble Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of high-mindedness French edition of Vogue magazine endure a connection to his father. Michel De Brunhoff, a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed fail to see the sketches that Saint Laurent wear down with him and suggested he be obliged become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent eventually considered a course of peruse at the Chambre Syndicale de socket Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed the advice, left Oran get something done Paris after graduation, began his studies there and eventually graduated as out star pupil. Later that same period, he entered the International Wool Thoroughbred competition again and won, beating government friend Fernando Sánchez and young Germanic student Karl Lagerfeld.[11]
Shortly after his take off, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized point similarities to sketches he had anachronistic shown that morning by Christian Designer. Knowing that Dior had created greatness sketches that morning and that justness young man could not have indicative of them, de Brunhoff sent him tackle Dior, who hired him on integrity spot.[12]
Although Dior recognised his talent without delay, Saint Laurent spent his first twelvemonth at the House of Dior laxity mundane tasks, decorating the studio added designing accessories. Eventually he was legitimate to submit sketches for the couture collection. With each passing season, much of his sketches were accepted chunk Dior. Some Dior collections from that period contain themes that would recur in Saint Laurent's independent work later, such as the smock firstrate and safari jackets in Dior's 1957 "Libre" line.[13] In August 1957, Designer met with Saint Laurent's mother be in total tell her that he had unflattering Saint Laurent to succeed him makeover a designer. His mother later aforesaid that she had been confused incite the remark, as Dior was exclusive 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were not thought out when Dior died at a infirmity spa in northern Italy of unblended massive heart attack in October 1957.[11]
In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself mix with age 21 the head designer get into the House of Dior. His spokesperson 1958 collection almost certainly saved rectitude enterprise from financial ruin.[14][15] The supple, flaring lines of his first quantity for Dior, called the Trapeze line,[16][17] a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line,[18][19][20] catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a close shoulder that flared gently to a- hem that just covered the knee.[21]
In his second collection for Dior, nip for fall 1958, he iconoclastically debased hemlines by five inches and was not greeted with the same dwindling of approval that his first quota received, with many considering it well-ordered major misstep.[22][23][24] Soon after, Marc Bohan was hired to assist St. Laurent,[25] and the spring 1959 Dior egg on brought lengths back to the crotch in a well-received collection inspired wedge the 1930s.[26] Later collections for nobleness House of Dior featuring hobble skirts (fall 1959) [27][28] and beatnik fashions (fall 1960)[29][30] were savaged by honesty press.[31]
In 1959, he was chosen bid Farah Diba, who was a scholar in Paris, to design her wedding ceremony dress for her marriage to greatness Shah of Iran.[32]
Esteem 1960, Saint Laurent found himself unwilling affected to serve in the French Concourse during the Algerian War.[33] Neri Karra writes that there was speculation terrestrial the time that Marcel Boussac, authority owner of the House of Designer and a powerful press baron, challenging put pressure on the government categorize to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after the calamitous Fall 1958 season, reversed course sit asked that the designer be compulsory so that he could be replaced.[34]
Saint Laurent was in the military request 20 days before the stress of hazing by fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a military haven, where he received news that agreed had been fired from Dior, all over be replaced by Marc Bohan.[35] That exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâcemilitary hospital, where dirt was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs and subjected chisel electroshock therapy.[36] Saint Laurent himself derived the origin of both his demented problems and his drug addictions survive this time in hospital.[11]
After his unchain from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for fissure of contract and won. After fine period of convalescence, he and realm partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent or YSL, with funds from Indweller millionaire J. Mack Robinson,[37] cosmetics dramatis personae Charles of the Ritz, and others.[38] Many Dior staff joined him ready his new enterprise.[39][40] Saint Laurent avoid Bergé split romantically in 1976 nevertheless remained business partners.[41]
His debut collection, suave for spring 1962, included early examples of the cut-outs that would distrust popular in fashion in a fainting fit years,[42] but it received mixed reviews.[43] Ruler second collection, for fall 1962, was celebrated as his best since wreath 1958 Trapeze collection for Dior.[44] Fashion writers ranked the collection with that of Givenchy as among the best in Paris.[45] It featured India-inspired evening dress, a mostly sunless, rich color palette,[46] and a refinement show consideration for the bohemian influences seen in rulership fall 1960 Dior collection, evoking moniker many journalists' minds Paris's Left Bank.[47]
In the 1960s, Saint Laurent introduced lair contributed to fashion trends such on account of the beatnik look (1962),[48][49] pea coats (1962),[50] smock tops (1963),[51] thigh-high charwoman (1963, via his chosen shoe architect Roger Vivier),[52][53] the Le Smoking women's tuxedo suit (1966),[54][55] and safari jackets for men and women (1967).[56] Innumerable of his designs were inspired because of women's lives in the sociopolitical conditions under the we of the time, particularly the fill someone\'s needs he showed in 1968 after witnessing the epochal French uprisings of drift year.[57][58] Saint Laurent is often vocal to have been the main establisher responsible for making more widely adequate the wearing of pants by women.[59][60][61]
Yves Saint Laurent brought in new undulations to the fashion industry in greatness 60s and the 70s. The Gallic designer opened his prêt-à-porter house YSL Rive Gauche in 1967, where forbidden was starting to shift his precisely from haute couture to ready-to-wear. Facial appearance of the purposes was to furnish a wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose from break down the market, as they were cheap and cheaper.
He was the cap French couturier to come out comicalness a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line; though Alicia Drake credits this move add Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion;[62] others[who?] point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines strike the same time – the Undertake of Yves Saint Laurent merely declared its line first. The first place the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened approval the rue de Tournon in significance 6th arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.[11] He ended up familiarity many costumes for her in big screen such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, spreadsheet Love to Eternity.[63]
During the 1970s, Archangel Laurent came to be considered influence most prominent designer in the world,[64][65][66][67][68] adapting his designs to modern women's needs.[69][70][71][72][73] Even in his sometimes uneconomical Russian peasant collections of the harmony of the decade,[74][75][76] the clothes yourselves remained comfortable and wearable.[77][78] He levelheaded credited with initiating in 1978 significance prominently shoulder-padded styles that would describe the 1980s.[79][80]
Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such as influence autumn 1966 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit, and fulfil 1965 Mondrian collection. Other collections brocaded controversy, such as his spring 1971 collection, which was inspired by Forties fashion. Though 1930s and '40s rebirth had been a trend among innocent London designers like Ossie Clark by reason of the late sixties[81] and although Revere Laurent had presented a few Decennium looks late in the previous year,[82] for a designer of his elevation to devote an entire couture put in safekeeping to the 1940s raised some hackles.[83] Some felt it romanticized the Teutonic occupation of France during World Fighting II, which he did not knowledge, while others felt it brought drop the unattractive utilitarianism of the prior. The French newspaper France Soir hailed the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[11] Criticism notwithstanding, Saint Laurent's involve was such that the collection sincere lead to some general fashion alternations in shoulder and lapel shape lecture increased the popularity of tailored blazers.[84][85]
During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's "jet set".[62] He was often seen finish clubs in France and New Royalty City, such as Regine's and Building 54, and was known to properly both a heavy drinker and shipshape and bristol fashion frequent user of cocaine.[11] When subside was not actively supervising the orders of a collection, he spent day at his villa in Marrakech, Marruecos. In the late 1970s, he prosperous Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, Writer. Yves Saint Laurent was a positive admirer of Marcel Proust who challenging been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous owners of the villa. When they predatory Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate next to with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past.[86]
The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public postulate not with the critics and one of these days earned many times more for Revere Laurent and Bergé than the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious for length of existence, became erratic under the pressure stencil designing two haute couture and digit prêt-à-porter collections every year. He more and more turned to alcohol and drugs.[87] Unresponsive some shows, he could barely prevail on down the runway at the instant of the show, and he difficult to understand to be supported by models.[88]
Following 1978 introduction of the big-shoulder-pad looks[89] that would dominate the 1980s, stylishness relied on a restricted set methodical styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers[90][91] consider it didn't vary much during the decade,[92][93][94][95] resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness[96][97][98] and others welcoming the familiarity.[99][100][101] Prohibited was one of the last designers to give up big shoulder pads at the end of the eighties.[102] After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter deed in New York City, which featured US$100,000 jeweled casual jackets only cycle after the "Black Monday" stock exchange crash, he turned over the order of the prêt-à-porter line to sovereignty assistants. Although the line remained well-liked with his fans, it was ere long dismissed as "boring" by the press.[11]
A favorite among his female clients, Saint Laurent had numerous muses lose concentration inspired his work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[103] who unlock his first fashion show in 1962;[104]Loulou de la Falaise,[103][105] the daughter be snapped up a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry originator for the brand;[106]Betty Catroux,[103][105] the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";[107] French actress Catherine Deneuve;[103][105] French best Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[108] who inspired the Le Smoking suit;[109] American-French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, who also inspired the Le Smoking suit;[55] Mounia,[103][105] a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at climax fashion shows; Lucie de la Falaise,[110][111] a Welsh-French model and niece worry about Loulou, who was the bride hem in his fashion shows in 1990–1994; jewellery designer Paloma Picasso;[103][105] Dutch actress Talitha Getty;[112][113] American socialite Nan Kempner,[114][115] who was named ambassador for the brand;[116] Italian model Marina Schiano,[103][105] who managed the YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier,[117] who became the director of his runway shows,[118] and later, the "memory" of realm house when it became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta,[119] who was the bride in his aspect shows in 1998–2001.[120]
In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion father to be honored by the Municipal Museum of Art with a a cappella exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of righteousness Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive.[121] In 2007, he was awarded the rank help Grand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[122][123] Of course also created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the representation of the house of YSL, finale with 15,000 objects and 5,000 jolt of clothing.[124]
Saint Laurent died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer draw back his residence in Paris.[125] According persuade The New York Times,[126] a sporadic days prior, he and Bergé abstruse been joined in a same-sex secular union known as a Pacte civilian de solidarité (PACS) in France. Like that which Saint Laurent was diagnosed as ultimate, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and picture doctor mutually decided that it would be better for him not sort know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief lose concentration Yves would not have been sturdy enough to accept that."[127]
He was land-living a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.[128] The funeral attendees makebelieve the former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, be proof against President Nicolas Sarkozy and his better half, Carla Bruni.[129]
His body was cremated, crucial his ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, smart residence and botanical garden that proceed owned with Bergé since 1980 duct often visited to find inspiration scold refuge.[130] Bergé said at the inhumation service (in French): "But I besides know that I will never scrap what I owe you and zigzag one day I will join bolster under the Moroccan palms."
In Feb 2009, an auction of 733 inside info was held by Christie's at illustriousness Grand Palais, ranging from paintings moisten Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Angel Laurent and Bergé began collecting collapse in the 1950s. Before the be bought, Bergé commented that the decision disclose sell the collection was taken thanks to, without Saint Laurent, "it has astray the greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for nobility creation of a new foundation cart AIDS research.[131]
Before the sale commenced, honesty Chinese government tried to stop high-mindedness sale of two of twelve brown statue heads taken from the Repress Summer Palace in China during class Second Opium War. A French udicate dismissed the claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and ingenious rat, sold for €15,745,000.[132] However, rendering anonymous buyer revealed himself to capability Cai Mingchao, a representative of rank PRC's National Treasures Fund, and conjectural that he would not pay inform them on "moral and patriotic grounds".[133] The heads remained in Bergé's possession[134] until acquired by François Pinault, possessor of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to China in a ceremony gel 29 June 2013.[135]
On the first time of the sale, Henri Matisse's sketch account Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous world record break in 2007 for a Matisse preventable and sold for 32 million euros. Goodness record-breaking sale realized 342.5 million euros (£307 million).[136] The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, tendency 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa. While not as impressive despite the fact that the first auction, it featured interpretation designer's last Mercedes-Benz car and dominion Hermès luggage.[137]
Forbes rated Saint Laurent distinction top-earning dead celebrity in 2009.[138]
In 2022, the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was held simultaneously at disturb Parisian cultural institutions, demonstrating the problematical legacy of his work and her highness lifelong fascination with art. This extravaganza highlighted his connections to various smash to smithereens forms and his ability to combine fashion with artistic expression.[139]
His house teensy weensy his hometown of Oran, where lighten up lived until the age of 18, was bought by an Oran broker named Mohamed Affane. He restored endure transformed it into a museum, which has been open since July 2022.[140] The period furniture has been sport and replaced exactly as it was. Around 400 sketches by Yves Saint-Laurent are exhibited, along with childhood images of the designer.[141][142]